June 19, 2008
Life Lesson: Write it Down!
Kyle Hayes (June 15, 2008, Quito, Ecuador)—We are at the end of this incredible trip for an evolution class, but this trip has also been one of the best learning experiences I have had about life outside the United States. (Click here for a photo album.)
(See a second photo album here.)
Beyond all of the biology, traveling, hiking, snorkeling, and photography, staying with a host family in a foreign country that speaks almost no English, attending Spanish classes, and spending time with friends, both American and Ecuadorian, I have picked up on even more life lessons.
The one that really sticks out—and that I want to implore others to utilize in their lives—is the skill of journaling.
This was not my first visit to another country, nor my first visit to a Spanish-speaking country, but it was my first time in South America and the first trip during which I have kept a journal. The field notebook was, of course, required for our visits to Tiputini and the Galapagos. But through my journal, I also have a detailed description of what I did during these visits. I was fortunate enough to have quite a few positive experiences outside of the biological trips and to journal about these as well. I know that this will also be beneficial when I want to recall specifics from this month away from home as I am telling stories to other friends and family,
I only wish I would have kept a journal during my other travels. I still have vivid memories and can recall many things about these trips, but I know that the memories are slipping and the experiences are constantly being pushed further and further into the past.
As many people say, hindsight is 20/20. I wish I would have realized this earlier in my life so that I could have kept better records.
I would offer two pieces of advice from this trip. First, take care of the environment. And second, keep a record of your experiences, for these help to define the person you become.
In photo: The Wabash Ecuadorian Study Group at the Galapagos "Post Office", where they left a letter. Click here for more about Post Office Bay.
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Snorkeling with Darwin
Jeff Austen ’09 (July 15, 2008, Bartolome, Galapagos Islands)—At the beginning of our evolution class, Dr. Krohne stated that Charles Darwin was initially uninterested in the Galapagos. For the first two days of our journey, I had to agree with Darwin. The black volcanic islands were almost barren in comparison to the Tiputini, the rainforest station we stayed at the week before.
However, after spending seven days exploring the Pacific waters and islands even further, I now appreciate why they hold such an elevated place in evolutionary theory. The black-colored marine iguanas, blue-footed boobies, and enormous Galapagos tortoises have all demonstrated these islands have more to offer than I originally thought.
The best sighting of the week that allayed my initial feelings for the Galapagos occurred on Thursday afternoon. After exploring North Seymour for bird life, we landed near Bartolome island, a desolate place blacked with volcanic rock. To conclude the day’s activities, we snorkeled off Bartolome’s sandy beaches. Here Dr. Rogers and I observed a 10 foot Manta Ray swimming idly in the clear Pacific waters, a humbling experience to say in the least. Later on, in the same afternoon, I swam with Galapagos penguins and a white-tipped shark. It is literally quite amazing how much biodiversity these waters hold.
Imagine what Darwin would write if he could have snorkeled in the Galapagos. What else would he have included in The Origin of Species?
In photo: Seniors Jeff Austin and Ronald King relax with a friend on a Galapagos beach.
Photo by David Krohne
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Sheer Ecstasy—and a Touch of Fear
Andrew Hasty ’09 (June 14, 2008, diving of North Seymour, Galapagos Islands)—I was that kid in Kindergarten. The kid who during free time took up both dry erase boards and in pure Picasso fashion drew what I was passionate about…sharks. Sharks attacking scuba divers, sharks eating fish, people spearing sharks, the masterpiece included a lot of red marker, not to mention my teacher questioning whether or not she should refer me to a psychiatrist.
That was then, this is now and not much has changed. I am that kid now who will spend hours showing people shark footage on YouTube. I once scolded my best friend during high school spring break for leaving the water to soon after being stung by a sting ray and not sticking around for a little while longer, as if the blood that was seeping out as slowly as Dr. Rogers performing a titration might serve as chum and attract sharks.
Before you accuse me of being an obsessive fanatic, which may contain some legitimacy, realize there is more to the story than bloody portraits from my youth and internet videos. The truth is, sharks evolved into the elite predator of the seas millions of years ago and have failed to exhibit any evidence that they will be handing that title down any time soon. After swimming with a white tipped reef shark a couple of days ago, I referred to sharks in my journal as the factor for maintaining balance in the ocean, similar to the lysosome in the cell. The experience with the white tip was worthwhile, but not satisfying. I wanted to be in that situation where my consciousness was fighting between being afraid and astonished, that situation where I was at the mercy of the ocean’s king.
I got that chance today. We began the day with an island visit to North Seymour to see nesting/mating Frigate birds.
Then we hit the water for scuba diving. The current was rough and visibility was poor. We got picked up by the dinghies and taken up the coast to calmer waters. I purposely passed on staying close to the coastal rock faces and stayed in deeper waters, obviously with hopes to catch a glimpse of a shark. No luck. It was time to head back and the boat was only about 50 yards away, so I opted to swim back to the boat; figuring I would give it one last chance.
Again no luck. But as I got closer to the boat, I noticed everyone outside on the stern deck gazing into the water, the water I was still in. Then I†learned what the ruckus was about: Three Galapagos sharks, probably six or seven feet in length, were circling the boat.
Watching them glide effortlessly through the blue water was breathtaking…literally—I forgot to breathe through my snorkel. My mind seemed in the fight of its life, struggling to decide to be scared to death or completely overcome with astonishment and amazement. It is the opportunity I had been waiting for, perhaps all my life, and I can honestly say it was one filled with sheer ecstasy…until the ocean’s top predator swam directly under my feet. Then a little fear settled in and it was time to leave the water.
One thing is for sure, drawings of sharks will be a lot more detailed now!
In photo: A pacific green turtle. Click here for a photo album.
Photos by David Krohne
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Lonesome George
Kyle Schroering ’10 (June 13, 2008, Puerto Ayora, Galapagos Islands)—There have been many amazing experiences on this trip, some cultural, and some scientific. Puerto Ayora, located off the coast of Santa Cruz, gave us a chance to experience both in one place.
Our day on the Santa Cruz was full of sightings of giant tortoises. In the Charles Darwin Research Station, we saw tortoises of all different species from around the Galapagos. These tortoises were held in captivity, with the goal of breeding and being released back to their native island areas. At one point in the station we were able to walk in the pen and get face to face with these large animals.
After some good pictures, it was off to see my favorite animal on the trip, Lonesome George. George is the most famous giant tortoise in the world. In 1971, he was found on the island of Pinta, an island scientists thought had been extirpated of all tortoises. The only one of his species, scientists have tried to mate him with females of similar genetic background, but with no luck. It appears that he doesn’t know what to do with the opposite sex, and that the act of copulation may be a learned activity.
During our visit, we were able to see a failed attempt by George to interact with a female. Billy, our guide, explained George’s want for dominance over the females instead of reproduction. He said that attempting to artificially mate George with females has only been tried once, by a female scientist known as “Lonesome George’s girlfriend” but fell short as when the scientist needed to return home to pursue her doctorate.
A 45 minute bus ride to a ranch in the hills of Santa Cruz gave us the opportunity to see these large creatures in their natural habitat. Whether covered in mud, eating the grasses non-stop, or sitting in a large pool of water, something made these sightings a lot more memorable than those in the research station. The ranch even included human-sized shells for the tourists to try on. Of course, our group took advantage and more memorable photos were taken.
The trip back to the boat took us through the harbor and to a festival taking celebrating the founding of Puerto Ayora. People lined the streets, forming a parade complete with traditional dancing—a nice end to our stay on Santa Cruz, one that was filled with both biological and social excitement.
In photo: wild Galapagos tortoise (therefore, not Lonesome George)
Photo by David Krohne
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June 18, 2008
One of the Most Bittersweet Moments in Nature
Patrick Murphy ’09 (June 11, 2008, Devil's Crown, Galapagos)—After leaving beautiful Espanola in the dead of night, we awoke this morning at 6 a.m. to see the rock formation Devil’s Crown to the south and the island of Floreana to the west.
Our morning trek took us past a lagoon of flamingoes, white pintail ducks, and cattle egrets. The amazing color of the flamingoes, which intensifies from white to a brilliant pink according to age, reaffirms the unduplicated bio-diversity found throughout the archipelago.
Hiking to the other side of the island, we found young sting rays learning the ropes of finding food among the sea floor at the shallow depths of the shoreline. Unlike their perceived reputation, sting rays are gentle creatures, demonstrated as one nonchalantly glided over my foot as I walked along the crashing surf.
Then, as we got ready to head back to the boat, we spotted one of the most bittersweet moments in nature as baby sea turtles, freshly hatched, began their journey to the open sea. Unfortunately for some, frigate birds were on hand for the event, snatching many from both the land and sea. Regardless, that experience, among the many I have taken from this trip, will remain with me as a powerful and treasured memory.
There is never a dull moment during life at sea in the Gal·pagos Islands. We spent the rest of the morning snorkeling in and around Devil’s Crown, a real-life aquarium located in an underground crater. Although the vibrantly colored fish are nothing new given the last few days, I was very excited to check off the final species on my “Finding Nemo” list: the Moorish Idol, or “Gill” from the movie. To have been able to see all of these species (save “Nemo,” the clown fish, who is not indigenous to the area), along with a few shark, sea turtles, and other tropical fish sightings, after only the second full day forces one to acknowledge the unique characteristics of the Gal·pagos and the need to preserve this and other critically bio-diverse areas around the world, which has propelled my future career plans.
After the group returns to the States, I will be living two extra months in Quito working for Walsh, an environmental consulting company committed to limiting the impact of oil, mining and other invasive endeavors all over South America, making sure future generations are given the same opportunities we experience today.
In photo: Santa Fe Island, Galapagos; blue-footed booby, Galapagos Islands
Photos by Dave Krohne
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June 17, 2008
The Days Are Getting Better and Better
Ronald King ’09 (June 10, 2008, Espanola, Galapagos Islands)—Today we visited the island of Espanola in the Galapagos. We snorkeled along various rifts and saw a number of marine plants and animals. I have never snorkeled, and, I must admit, it has been one of the greatest experiences of my life.
Later in the day we hike along the island and saw a number of birds, iguanas, and sea lions. It really amazed me how tamed the animals are here in the Galapagos. While I was lying on the beach, a mockingbird came and rested on my back.
Each day is getting better and better, and I can only imagine what things I will see next.
I am a senior, a history major and Spanish minor, and I have been completely blown away by this trip. Being immersed in the Ecuadorian culture has been an experience words could never explain. Taking courses at the Pontifical Catholic University, the trip to the rainforest, and even now, being in the Galapagos—these are things I never even dreamed of doing.
One of the highlights for me in the Amazon was seeing river dolphins. I had no idea that I would be seeing fresh water dolphins as we coasted along the Tiputini River.
But there is one image that I will keep with me long after this trip is over. As we were on the boat doing a night hike in the middle of the rainforest, visible in the sky was the Milky Way, surrounded by clusters of other stars. I have never seen so many stars.
In photos: Students encounter a Galapagos tortoise; a rainbow at Tiputini Research Station.
Photos by Dave Krohne
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Bitten by Ants, Swimming with Sea Lions
Ryan Waldon (June 9, 2008, San Cristobal Island, Ecuador)—Today we began our journey through the Galapagos Islands, leaving Quito early this morning and flying to San Cristobal, a medium-sized island when compared to the surrounding islands.
The Amazon was a very stimulating experience for me, not only for viewing many species native to the forest, but also for becoming very closely acquainted with one of the most dangerous ants within the jungle: the Conga ant. As we settled in for the night after playing a relaxing game of euchre under candlelight, I climbed into bed and after nearly a half hour was sound asleep. With early morning bird watching and late night hikes, sleep was a seldom occurrence in the rain forest. I awoke from my rest with a tremendously sharp pain on my lower ankle, and I figured, due to the pain of the bite, that I had been bitten by none other than the fierce Conga ant, known to pack a painful punch when delivering a bite. Through the bellowing, my cabin mates awoke, and we ceremoniously roasted the culprit over the fire of the candle, which had surpassed the bottom bunk and climbed into my sheets, seemingly planning its attack. Although a particularly agonizing event, it will leave me with nothing but fine stories to tell of my time in the Amazon. I wouldn’t give it up for anything.
Having moved on to the Galapagos after a nice weekend of rest, I no longer have to worry about finding insects in my bed, seeing that we are on a “first class yacht” known as the “Estrella del Mar I.” It is one of the most amazing boats I’ve seen with plenty of room for all.
After settling in, we began our voyage around the islands with a snorkeling trip just off the coast of San Cristobal. Words can’t describe how it felt to swim with the sea lions as they seemingly mimicked each and every move we made in an attempt to “play” with us in the water. They approached us without hesitation as I am sure they acted when Darwin first approached on the H.M.S. Beagle.
The trip thus far has been nothing less than exceptional, and I can’t wait to see what the next six days spent cruising through the Galapagos will offer, and I am excited to tell stories about my trip to those at home. Keep checking the blogs for more status on our incredible trip.
In photo: Kyle Schroering ’10 snorkels off the Galapagos Islands.
Photo by Dave Krohne
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