Ross McKinney '09 - Ahh, the power of cheese.  From my first trip to a cheesery, the power of cheese became more and more evident.  As soon as I drove through Berne, IN, I noticed it to be exactly what the signs spoke of it: A Friendly Swiss Community.  And the Swissland Cheese Co. was no exception.  The two Amish buggies and numerous cars in the parking lot made the impression that this cheese was well worth the 3-hour drive from Crawfordsville. 

The owner, Kirk Johnson, was unfortunately in Virginia, but his staff spoke of him with respect and high regard.  Danny, the ranking employee, began my tour of the facilities. After donning the appropriate and required, not to mention quite stylish hair net, I began the walk through the noisy room that housed the “can washer,” a monstrous dishwasher that sanitized the hundreds of 80 lbs capacity milk cans received from the local Amish community every day. 

On the phone call to confirm the tour, I was excited to learn about the making of green Colby, the regular Thursday event.  Unfortunately, to my dismay, this was only a term to describe the cheese’s freshness, not its coloration. I clearly had a lot to learn about cheesing terminology.  These four hundred pounds of cheese will be sold this weekend at various farmers’ markets in primarily Amish communities of North-East Indiana.

Swissland also has a hold on the fast growing Organic market. Internet orders occupy nearly all of Monday business, almost exclusively for the many organic and raw-milk cheese varieties offered. The goat milk cheese is also a big hit; the Feta and their popular “Chedda Feta Bluz” were an utter gustatory delight.  

In addition to making cheese, Swissland also transports and sells tens of thousands of pounds of milk to Glasgow, Kentucky, as well as parts of Ohio, Michigan, and even Wisconsin. Andy Henry, an employee during the transition from exclusively milk to cheese and milk products, spoke of the long work hours and rigorous testing the milk is subjected to.  Seeing the 10 minute process of checking for antibiotics was one example of the plethora of requirements for raw milk, organic, or even regular processed cheese.

Arriving to work at 4 or 5 AM is a regular occurrence for loading the 5000 lb tanks and beginning the numerous tasks of the cheesery, but it is said to be “very fun and rewarding.”

The experience proved that Indiana Cheese is growing and an important aspect of the Dairy and overall area economy.  The products use all local components and employees to produce phenomenal and quite economical products that everyone can enjoy.  As Danny, the Head Cheesemaster said, “Everyone loves cheese, and we have a cheese for everyone.”

In photos: Upper left, Green Colby Curds being mixed, nearly time to be extracted and pressed for the weekend. Lower right, third batch of baby swiss aging on the shelves of the cold-room.