November 18, 2009

Avtgis '11 Swirling in Morrocan Culture

Alex Avtgis '11 - While most of the globalized Western world employs modernization in order to boast of their pluralist hybridities (cultural, social, or otherwise), Morocco can proudly claim the latter without needing recourse to the former; a dynamic cornucopia of Arabic and Moorish influences, Berber native ancestry, and communities originating from several Sub-Saharan African nations traditionally subsist under the royal name of the state, without ever acknowledging the multiple foreign and European influences – be they French, Spanish, Japanese, or American – which also intertwine in Morocco’s present day.

Yes, fresh and highly modern influences do exist already. Cell phones are found in every pocket, be it the pockets of rural jellabas (a Moroccan tunic) or urban designer jeans. Televisions talk constantly, and the internet informs homes across the country. You can locate the centers novelle (new) in every major city (coastal or inland). Some even boast of large corporate Megamalls. In certain parts of Rabat, such as the trendy Agdal, you’d think you had lost yourself somewhere along the way in Chicago or Indianapolis.

And you’d also think that would surprise me, as a Westerner coming for his first time to an African country. But that’s not what I’ve noticed the most.

I live in the capital city of Morocco, Rabat, and arguably the most representative of the entire country. Characteristically, it’s not overly sensational like Marrakech, exorbitantly touristy like Tangier, highly relaxed like Essaouira, surprisingly rural like Boujaad, or fanatically bustling like Casablanca. It combines all of these spices into a nice complex blend, which I breathe in (deep!) every beautiful morning from the leisure and comfort of a second-story bedroom window.

What I have found most astonishing about this charming capital is its constancy in revolving around a romanticized Medina khdeema (old city). Even after hundreds of years, the city’s pulse directly stems from those ancient, cement structures which inhabit the three square miles encased by red stone brick.

Though the city has expanded for miles southward over a short decade or so – through which it can now boast one of the best and prestigious universities on the African continent – most of the life and activity occurs in this conservative, coastal center. All energy found in the Villa Novelle centralizes right outside of the old medina’s busiest hub; where the dusty Avenue Mohammed V intersects the equally worn Avenue Hassan II marks the location, on average, of the most foot, taxi and motorbike traffic found in the entire city.

See, when this intersection dies out, there won’t be a soul wandering the newer French city. What you could find is the chatter of elderly patriarchs (always accompanied by the hurried scurries of younger relatives bearing cups of tea on metal trays), female conversation floating from windows and doorways, the smell of roasting onion and beef rising from street vendors, the calls and scrapple of animated alley soccer games – all of which are screened only for kdema’s citizens.

At times, life inside of it is like life in the Wabash fraternity. There are certain walls which simultaneously bind and liberate individuals, both foster and inhibit growths, and all the while provide concrete boundaries which forge and force relationships to occur.

In short, everybody knows everybody. A shocking story reveals this best – when I was jumped during the first few days, and had both a copy of my passport and an IPOD stolen, it was the medina which came to my aide; I credit the networking of its inhabitants. Immediately following the incident, my host brother rallied the entire police force in a five mile radius by walking from post to post and talking to ‘friends’. While the ensuing search revealed nothing, the situation was resolved hours later, when a fruit vendor, who was also my brother’s friend, informed him of the thief’s home.

When my brother returned triumphantly with my passport and IPOD, I knew it was only possible by the help of a friendly, small city. He confirmed it was. The laughs we now share over the topic confirm my love and deep gratitude I have for the opportunity to study abroad.

That’s only one of many such encounters I have with the kdema’s numerous characters. Everytime I pass the reggae vendor on ‘fish and vegetable’ street (which we’ve appropriately named after its two main foodstuffs), who sits all day listening to music, we smile at each other. It’s the same simple relationship I have with Karim, my friend at the hookah café down the street, who gives me a hug and calls me his brother.

And that doesn’t stop at the peer-level. I’ve been invited over to over for coffee, tea and discussion by a myriad of people who are old enough to be my grandparents.

Alas, I mustn’t keep you any longer. I’m being kicked out of the café in the new city – I should’ve known. Find attached some pictures of Rabat and others documenting some my journeys outside the beloved city.

To me, it isn’t funny I just used the adjective beloved. I guess I have developed a deep love for it; the same way that the freshman must be seeing our dearly beloved Alma Mater right about now, with the leaves falling golden and the warming promises against DePauw circulating.

Before I forget – I recently completed my search for a place to stay during my independent research period. As I turn back home, and navigate the kdema’s ancient streets tonight, I will probably grin as I put the key in my apartment off avenue Sidi-Fatah; I am both proud and happy to continue calling this ancient community my home for the next month.

In Photos: Top Right, Chefchaouen city view; at left, looking up a cathedral bell tower in Casablanca; second right, Casablanca's Cathedral; lower left, Beni Mallel street vendors.

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November 10, 2009

Tian Embracing French Culture Daily

Tian Tian '11 - With the combination of an art major with French and economics minors, as well as a life-long passion for classical music, I simply cannot think of a better place than Paris to spend my study-abroad semester. This is a city that helps me digest what I have learned in the past, inspires me to learn a lot of new things at present, and shows me a lot of possibilities to better develop myself in my future.

After a whole months’ advanced French language immersion at a beautiful medieval town named “Tours” located in southwestern France, I returned to Paris and started my five classes at the Catholic Institute of Paris – an art history class ranging from the period Renaissance to Impressionism, a French history class and three advanced-level French language classes.

During my leisure times, I take full advantage of the richness of the top-notch museums in Paris. Since I hold an “art history student museum pass”, I get to visit all the art museums in Paris free. After appreciating the French impressionism for over ten years, I finally get to visit the “Musée de l’Orangerie”, in which there are Claude Monet’s famous “Waterlilies” oil paintings on eight huge canvases with a total length of ninety-one meters. Meanwhile, I have already developed my favorite activity in Paris which is to walk along the left bank of Seine River, watching the amazing views and culture relics the left bank bears. Walking along the bank that has influenced countless painters, musicians and writers, I understand better the core value and history of Paris.

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October 19, 2009

Marzotto '11 Studying in Rosario, Argentina

Nick Marzotto '11 - As the leaves turn red, brown, and yellow at Wabash College, I have been experiencing a different atmosphere in the southern hemisphere. I have spent almost a month and half in beautiful Argentina, where the season is Spring rather than Autumn.

I´m studying in the city of Rosario, which to most Rosarinos, is considered the second largest city in Argentina. Rosario lies on the Paraná River, which is the fourteenth longest river in the world. I like to equivalate Rosario to Chicago because of its industry, sports teams, and layout. Rosario has two major soccer teams, Newels Old Boys and Rosario Central, which both compete in the top league in Argentina. Rosario is crucial to Argentina because of its connection to the interior of the continent so many different cultures influence the atmosphere in Rosario.

The culture in Argentina is very interesting because it seems to be a mixture of European, American, and a little flavor of South America. The food in Argentina is incredibly European, which means no spice. Steak and wine is what Argentina is known for and I would definitely have to agree. Another difference that makes Argentina unique is the accent that use while speaking Spanish, it´s Spanish with a major Italian influence.

The school I have been studying at is called the Universidad Nacional de Rosario. The courses that I am enrolled in are Gramatica 4, Conversación 4, Historia, and Topics in Latin American and Argentine Culture. Each class is challenging but gives me an interesting outlook on the history of Argentina and the struggles the nation has endured in its short history.

In the month and half of living in Argentina, I have explored different cities/areas. I have made trips to Salta (which is in the Andes), Buenos Aires (the tenth largest city in the world), as well as Cordóba (third largest city in Argentina). Each area had its on story and atmosphere which was incredible to see and experience.

In a couple weeks, my program is taking a trip to Iguazu Falls which to many is considered one of the most beautiful natural wonders in the world. It´s the fifth largest waterfall and should be a breathtaking sight. The opportunity to view and experience this diverse and fascinating culture has been a real treat to my liberal arts experience and a true once in a lifetime experience. Wabash Always Fights!

In Photos: Top left, Nick at A waterfall in La Cumbrecita, Rosario from the Parana River. Bottom right, the Barrio La Boca in Buenos Aires.
 

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October 13, 2009

German '11: Granada Offers Cultural Mix

Jake German '11 - This semester I am studying in Granada, located in the southern region of Spain. This territory is known as Andalucía. My program has visited the three main cities of Andalucía: Sevilla, Cordoba, and of course Granada.

Each city demonstrates the influence of eight hundred years of Arabic culture intertwined with the natural beauty of mountainous southern Spain as well as contemporary Christian culture. The Cathedral of Sevilla is the third largest cathedral in the entire world after St. Peter’s in the Vatican and St. Paul’s in London. It can also claim (with some argument) the remains of Christopher Columbus. Seville also has an amazing minaret, which was subsequently converted to a Christian bell tower to stand beside the cathedral.

Cordoba is home to one of the most famous mosques in the entire world. It reflects the dichotomy of Moorish architecture and Christian iconography. After the fall of the Muslim empire in Spain, the mosque was converted to a cathedral; this was a common practice in the fifteenth century during the Reconquista. Red and white stones were used to make the horseshoe arches that still stand today in rows throughout the church.

Granada, my city, is the location of one of the last great Moorish palaces in all of Spain. The Alhambra (the Red in Arabic) is a palace with beautiful gardens inside a great fortress. It contains centuries of different Arabic and Islamic art and architecture, all containing influences from the twenty successive Caliphs who called this magnificent palace home. The palace is located on top of a hill overlooking the city. Granada also boasts the last place in Spain where you receive free tapas with a drink. Tapas are Spanish hors d'oeuvres. Some examples include tuna in a tomato sauce on bread, tortilla Española (potato omelet), quiche sandwich with red peppers, and my personal favorite calamari with a vegetable tomato sauce. Olive oil is used on EVERYTHING here which makes the cuisine healthier.

Being in a town the size of Granada (230,000 inhabitants) gives you the big city experience without the big city hassle. I could walk anywhere in the city; I don’t because they have an efficient public transportation system, but I could do so. Moreover, the monuments to Isabel Católica, the plaza de toros, and the museums around the city are never crowded. Spaniards enjoy the art of conversation, and the cafes and tapas bars provide opportunities for people to talk and enjoy a glass of sherry. All in all, I am having a great time. In two weeks, I will travel across the Mediterranean Sea to Morocco on the coast of the African continent for five days. I can’t wait!
 

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October 07, 2009

A Month in Perugia Has Gone Fast

Andrew Sparks '11 - I am still dumbfounded that I have already studied in Perugia for a full month, and it has been a month that I will never forget.

The city of Perugia is nestled in the hills of the region Umbra in the center of Italy. The relatively small population of 100,000 allows for a student to become fully immersed into the life of the historic city. Perugia is well known for its historic architecture, as well as the many cultural events. The city hosts a world renowned Jazz Festival in the month of July, and the Euro Chocolate festival in October. It is commonly known as the “University City” because it is home to three universities that host 40,000 Italian and foreign students.

The nightlife is another unique aspect of the city of Perugia. The heart of the city’s nightlife is the famous Piazza IV Novembre al Tramento. The steps of the city’s Duomo that look over the piazza come alive at 8 o’clock with people socialize and preparing for the nights events. This is a particular favorite spot for the students to meet up before going out to one of the many restaurants or bars in the city. The nights out usually do not start until after 11 because dinner in Italy usually starts around 8:30, and usually lasts for about and hour and a half. This allows for great conversation and a chance to enjoy the delicious Italian cuisine.

Perugia is also home to a class C soccer team, and a class B Rugby team. I had the privilege to practice with the city’s professional rugby team a few weeks ago. This was the first time I ever played rugby, and it didn’t help that the majority of the team spoke only Italian. I eventually got the hang of it, and finished the day with a few tackles as well as some new friends. Playing with the team was an amazing experience, and I will be practicing with them in the future when I have the time.

Umbra University provides a diverse list of courses that have some sort of Italian aspect. My courses include Italian 101, Survey of the Italian Renaissance Art, The Art of Leonardo da Vinci, and the History of the Roman Empire. Each course provides a weekend trip that will allow us to personally observe the material covered in class. This is certain to enhance my understanding of each subject, and will allow me to see artwork and building that I have dreamed about seeing. I am very excited to learn about Italy’s rich history and culture!

I am truly blessed to have the ability to study abroad this semester. I would highly recommend to all Wabash students to take the opportunity to study abroad.

In Photos: Top right, Sparks with other Umbra students visiting Florence. Bottom left, a view of Perugia from Sparks apartment.

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September 28, 2009

A Month on the Iberian Peninsula

Graham Youngs '11 - At the end of September I will have lived in Salamanca, Spain for one month, certainly a month that I wouldn’t soon forget.

The city of Salamanca, with a population around 150,000, is good sized and caters particularly well to a Spanish and International student demographic. During the day Salamanca is alive with tourists and inquisitive students who come from all over the world to see the incredible Renaissance architecture of the Cathedrals, Fachada, and the world renowned Plaza Mayor.

Despite the breathtaking architecture, the city of Salamanca truly comes alive around midnight, when the streets and bars fill with students and partygoers. From Sept. 8-14 Salamanca undergoes a series of parties that even outdo the city’s normal fiestas. I think it was during this week that my Spanish mom actually apologized to me for the excessive night and day parties; apparently she felt slightly embarrassed by the duration of the fiestas. I quickly settled her fears, by telling her that celebrating this week with the Spanish people stands as one of the greatest experiences of my life.

Each night during the week of fiestas a different free concert could be seen on a huge stage in the Plaza Mayor. Everything from traditional Spanish Flamenco to what sounded to me like Flogging Molly could be seen and heard all while sipping on a fine Spanish wine or beer.

On Thursday during the week of fiestas I bought a ticket for 20 euros ($30.00) to see a bull fight in the Corrida de Toros, just north of the Plaza Mayor. I sat in the nosebleeds, but that did not preclude me from fully experiencing one of the greatest, yet most obscure sporting events of my life. I was left in amazement from the beginning ceremony and it took me nearly 3 rounds to pick up on the subtleties of the sport culminating in the tercio de muerte, or the final kill. I was fortunate enough to see the best matador of the week quickly dispatch no less than six toros to the wild applause of a packed stadium.
In between concerts, bullfighting, and other fiesta activities, I have still found time for studies at the University of Salamanca. During the month of September I am in class from 9:00am-1:00pm taking an assortment of intensive Spanish language and grammar classes as well as a class in practical conversational skills.

From October to December I will begin the bulk of my coursework in Spanish grammar, conversation, culture, and art history. Thus far I have enjoyed taking the skills I have learned in the classroom and putting them to use in conversation with my family and with people on the street.

I feel blessed to be given this fantastic opportunity to study a language at its source while simultaneously immersing myself in a truly unique culture.

In Photos, from Graham: The photo of me was taken in a small pueblo near Salamanca called el Ciudad Rodrigo. The wall is called the fechada and it is basically the entrance to the University.  Finally the picture of the people was taken in the Plaza Mayor and it is basically the celebration of a Spanish parade in progress.

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May 11, 2009

Beautiful Weather Helps Define These Spanish People

Chris Beard '10 - Apart from the lively festivities and fascinating tourist spots, the most enjoyable part of my stay in Sevilla has been seeing how the history and geography of the region have affected the people and culture here so much. Though of course we in America are shaped by these things, it didn’t really hit me until I became immersed in the Andalusian atmosphere of the city, and started to learn about it from the Sevillanos themselves.

As my art history professor explained it, many of the people here still identify the city with its golden age, though it declined about half way through the 17th century (more than a 100 years before our country’s founding!). The city became really wealthy during those times and was considered a world capital—this brought them to start a ‘holier than thou’ competition with Toledo, building what is still to this day the world’s largest Gothic cathedral and really going over the top with their Holy Week. Even the city’s symbol is a source of pride, which refers to an event long ago when Sevilla was the only city to remain loyal to King Alfonso X after a coup.

But even though the city’s former stature was destroyed in a plague more than 350 years ago, you can still see the pride that the people have of the golden years. My host brother for example, though not very religious, walked around barefoot in a procession for 14 hours straight this year at Holy Week, carrying about 80 pounds worth of a Jesus statue on his shoulders. While many people in Spain are Catholic, and many cities also carry out celebrations during Holy Week, my family has explained that Sevilla is famous for its Holy Week because of how the city fills the streets in procession for the whole week and shut down schools and business in honor of the traditions that go back the years of Sevilla’s world prestige.

The city's pride comes out again a few weeks after Holy Week, during the Feria de abril. This is like a week long fair where the whole city dresses up in traditional clothing and heads to the fair grounds, dancing the ‘Sevillanas’ while eating and drinking all day until about 7 in the morning—every single day. During this week, the city puts on its best in an event that brings widespread attention to the pride of the Sevillanos.

But the history only explains half of what makes the people here so unique. The weather and location also contribute an awful lot to the way they interact. Sevilla is in the south of Spain, and is the first part of Europe to get the warm air of the Pacific. Today was a cloudless 93 degrees, and I haven't felt it get below 50 since I arrived in January; this great weather seems to be the other explanation for why people here are so uniquely outgoing, according to friends who compare the atmosphere to that of other places in Spain and Europe.

But I had a hint that I was about to be immersed in this warm sea of charisma even before I got off the bus to Sevilla and experienced the weather. On the way here, I struck up a conversation with a really friendly college graduate from the city that ended up giving me directions on where to go, and left me with her contact information in case I ever needed any help or advice getting around the city.

A few days later, on my way to meet a friend at a place I'd never been to, I got directions from a woman who was heading in the same directions. After explaining where to go, she immediately said, "Hey, you're not from around here! Where'd you come from?" I've been ambushed plenty of other times by the friendliness of the people here, and have been invited to gatherings and birthday parties, simply for being the friend of a friend of a friend. I think my host mom summed it up best when she was telling me not to worry about getting off on the wrong stop on the bus for my first day of classes. "Someone will tell you where to get off," she said. "In Sevilla, everyone takes care of everyone."

I've enjoyed the small details of living abroad in Sevilla too. Jamón curado and sopa de lenteja are definitely two of my favorite foods I've ever tried. I'm going to miss watching Barcelona crush whichever unfortunate team it has to play every weekend, and the annoyingly dubbed American movies, and doing pescadito until the actual party starts sometime after 1 am. But the great part of this experience has been seeing how the beautiful year-round weather and the rich history have defined the people of Sevilla to this day. The city may not be what it was a few hundred years ago. But the memory of its history still resides in the people, who continue to remember it with their daily customs and traditions.

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